Hey there, I’m Sienna, and I’m going to show you how to sew the Bud shacket. A shacket is a cross between an unlined jacket and a relaxed button up shirt. But it’s also a skill building superstar. When you sew this classic layering piece, you’ll learn all the techniques needed for making button up shirts while sewing a cozy jacket that you can layer or even wear on its own.
This project will walk you through techniques like assembling button and cuff plackets, using the burrito method to finish the back yoke and sewing a two piece collar. Plus, it has some fun details like pleated chest pockets, patch pockets with side openings, sleeve plackets, and a locker loop at the back yoke.
This pattern has gender expansive drafting. This means that it was fit on both male and female models during development. The most important measurements to consider are your across shoulders and biceps. Compare your measurements to the finished garment measurements to pick the amount of ease that you want, and you can lengthen or shorten as needed.
Look for medium or heavyweight fabrics such as flannel, denim, canvas, twill, moleskin, and corduroy. When picking out fabric, consider a few things: the weight of the fabric and the details you will need to sew. For example, this pattern has plackets and a collar that will require you to sew through several layers of fabric. Avoid lightweight fabrics like rayon or double gauze. While they might be suited for button ups, a jacket is intended to have more bulk and structure.
I have our photo sample fabric leftover. If you want your jacket to be more jacket than shirt, this is a really good option. It’s a nice, sturdy fabric. And then if you want your jacket to be more shirt than jacket, this is a lovely plaid that Haley chose. It’s a little bit lighter weight than I thought it was going to be, but yeah, it’s a really nice soft, I’m assuming cotton, I’d have to check. I’m using this lovely soft and squishy mammoth flannel from Robert Kaufman. I think the colorway is called shell.
In addition to your fabric, you’re also going to need some all-purpose polyester sewing thread, sewing machine needles appropriate for your fabric. You’re going to need 7/8th yards of lightweight fusible interfacing. You’re going to want eleven 20mm or 5/8 inch buttons or snaps. And then the last tool you’re going to need is a point turner.
If at any point in this process you have questions, hop on over to the community. There, you can post your questions, upload photos, and chat with other Seamwork members who are also watching the Bud class. Let’s get started.