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How to Raise, Lower, or Change the Neckline on a Pattern

8 Lessons taught by Haley


709 Seamwork members have watched this class.
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Gape-Free Low Necklines

Necklines that sit lower, like scoop necks and V-necks, are very similar to draft. The most important drafting consideration is accounting for the hollow between the fullest part of your chest and neck. With a lower neckline, you want the edge of the fabric to hug this contour rather than gape.

Every body is different, so depending on the curves of your chest and shoulders, you may or may not need to adjust for these deltas. In this demonstration, we’ll use increments of 1/4” to adjust for the hollows, but your body may require anything from 0 to 1/2”.

An easy way to tell if you have these hollows is to balance a ruler straight down from your shoulder. You can see how much of a curve there is.

I am going to show you how to create a scoop or V-neckline that contours to your body’s shape!

Drafting a V-neck from a high neck-base like the Jane tee can be easy. But it isn’t just as simple as redrawing the neckline. On all bodies (but especially bodies with breasts) there are hollow points. You can often find a hollow at your shoulder slope and your upper chest. Failing to account for those hollows can cause a gaping neckline. You can avoid gaping altogether if you consider both the hollows on the shoulder slope and the upper chest when drafting a low neckline.

First, I’ll demonstrate drafting a V-neckline using the Jane T-shirt, then I’ll explain how to translate this approach for a scoop neckline, using the Samson top as an example.

If you need any help, be sure to share in the Community.

How to Raise, Lower, or Change the Neckline on a Pattern

In addition to your regular sewing kit, here’s what you’ll need for this class:


  • Rulers: A clear ruler and curved rulers of your choice

  • Flexible tape measure

  • Pattern paper (a roll or large sheets)

  • A sharp pencil and an eraser

  • Clear tape

Have questions? Ask over in the Community.

Community

Work alongside other sewists by participating in the Seamwork community. Ask and answer questions, share your progress, get inspired by real-life sewists, and post your finished projects.

Join Seamwork