Learn how to create darts that will transform your garment.
Standard darts are a common technique found in patterns to help shape fabric to your body. In this video, Chelsea shows you how to create a standard dart, plus some tips for achieving a perfectly fitted dart.
Water soluble marker or chalk
Let’s talk darts. Darts are one of the most common shaping devices found in patterns. Darts around the bust or the waistline, also known as standard darts, point to an area fullness, shaping the fabric for a nice fit. Today I’ll show you how it’s done.
Start by transferring the dart markings from the pattern piece to the wrong side of your fabric. Mark the dart tip onto your fabric using a water soluble marker or chalk. Make sure you’ve notched where the dart legs are from the pattern piece onto your fabric. From the dart tip draw the dart legs extending out to the notches you’ve made at the seam line.
Then fold the dart through the center with right sides together, matching up the dart legs. Pin in place.
Here’s a tip: pin along the dart leg so your fabric stays secure at your dart markings.
Now it’s time to sew the dart. Start at the wide end of the dart backstitching a couple of times, then sew through the dart legs to the dart tip and right off the edge of the fabric as smoothly as you can.
Leave long thread tails and do not backstitch. If you’re sewing with a fuller bust you can always try curving the tip of the dart that helps the fabric curve even more so around the bust giving an even better fit.
Tie the thread tails into a knot at the dart tip to secure, then trim the excess thread. Press the dart in the direction the pattern indicates. Using a tailor’s ham is helpful to get the dart tip flat if you have one. By pressing on something curved, like a tailor’s ham, we can mold the dart to fit our curves better.
Remember it’s okay if your dart ends a little before after your dart tip marking. What is most important is sewing your dart off the edge of your folded fabric in the smoothest way you can. And now you have a standard dart. Repeat these steps for any remaining darts on your pattern.
What’s your favorite type of shaping device? What type of darts do you like to sew most? Comment down below and let us know. Don’t forget to subscribe so you don’t miss out on our future quick tip videos. Thanks! Happy sewing!