Seamwork
 

Block, Paper, Scissors

Create a flared gored skirt using basic flat patternmaking.


Block Paper Scissors is a patternmaking series featuring dart manipulation – no experience necessary to join in! Every month, we start with a basic bodice pattern (also called a “block” or a “sloper”) with an underarm bust dart and a waist dart. We use that as a jumping off point to create a different bodice design each time.

This month, we are deviating a little bit and playing around with a classic skirt variation. You’ll want to start with a standard straight skirt with darts. Make sure you do any and all fit adjustments before attempting any patternmaking modifications.

In this tutorial, we’ll be creating a flared seven-gore skirt. This variation can be applied to a skirt or a dress, and is perfect for creating a fun color-blocked look.

How to:


Step | 01

On the front skirt pattern piece, use paper shears to cut along the dart legs, removing both darts. Repeat on the back skirt.


Step | 02

Draw a line from the dart apex to the hem of the skirt. This drawn line should be parallel to the grainline. Repeat on the back skirt.


Step | 03

Cut along the drawn line. Repeat on the back skirt.


Step | 04

At the hem, mark 1″ out from all seams. Use a ruler to connect this point to the waist dart apex.


Step | 05

Add a 5/8″ seam allowance to all seams.

Sewing notes:

Assemble all skirt panels and attach the waistband or facing. A zipper can be sewn at the center back seam or side seam, depending on your personal preference. Hem to the desired length.

Dezi
Oliver
Dexter

Download new patterns each month starting at $5.83

Use the techniques and ideas featured in each month’s issue to create these and other quick & lovely projects.

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