Seamwork

Block Paper Scissors

Learn three pattern hacks for the Piedra dress, by Anna Aguirre.


Block Paper Scissors is a monthly column that teaches three pattern hacks. These hacks help you give your Seamwork patterns a custom spin—all you need is paper, a ruler, and a pencil!

This month, we walk you through three different pattern hacks for the Piedra dress. Learn how to create a v-neckline, a trapeze style dress with a turtleneck, and a ruffle hem dress with bracelet-length sleeves.

Note: For best results, be sure to make any necessary fit adjustments before hacking your pattern.

You’ll Need:

  • Piedra
  • Paper
  • Pencil
  • Scissors
  • Clear ruler
  • French curve











Create a v-neckline


Step | 01

With a pencil, make a mark approximately 3-4” down from the center front (A) neckline.

Step | 02

Draw a line from the inside corner of the shoulder seam to the mark to create a v-neckline. TIP: Use a French curve to create a line with more subtle curves.

Step | 03

Trim along the drawn line.



Step | 04

Create a new neckband. To do this, measure the neckline of the front (A) and back (B), excluding the shoulder seam allowances.

Step | 05

Fold a piece of paper in half. Draw a rectangle 1” (2.5 cm) wide, and half the total length of the neckline minus 1”. Mark one shorter edge center front. Also, add a shoulder seam mark 1/2” closer to the center front. This will offset the negative ease in the neckband.

Step | 06

Using a clear ruler, create a 45-degree angle at the center front of the neckband piece. This will help form the shape for the v-neckline at the center front.


Step | 07

Add a 3/8” (10 mm) seam allowance along the bottom, center back, and center front edges.

Step | 08

Cut the neckband out of the paper. Unfold the neckband piece and transfer all markings onto the opposite edge of the neckband. Mark the center fold line and add two notches at the center back neckband. Label this piece “cut 2.”

Step | 09

To sew the neckband, follow along with the instructions in our Seamwork article How to Sew A V-Neck T-Shirt.


Create a trapeze dress with a turtleneck


Step | 01

Add a 3/8” (10 mm) seam allowance to the center front (A).

Step | 02

Draw a line from the middle of the front (A) neckline to the middle of the hemline.

Step | 03

Cut along this line from the hem to the neckline, cutting to, but not through the neckline.



Step | 04

Spread the hem of the front (A) approximately 6-7”, or the desired width for the trapeze dress.



Step | 05

Redraw the hem and trace off a new front (A) pattern piece. Label the pattern piece “cut 2 self.”

Step | 06

Repeat steps 2-5 for the back (B).



Step | 07

Measure the front (A) and back (B) neckline, excluding the shoulder seam allowances.

Step | 08

Draw a rectangle approximately 6 – 7” wide, the total length of the neckline plus 3/8” for seam allowance. Mark a fold line at the center front. Draw a circle to mark the shoulder seam placement. Mark a notch at center back. Label the new turtleneck band “cut 1 on fold.”

Step | 09

Follow the original instructions for constructing and attaching the new neckband.


Create a ruffle hem


Step | 01

Measure how long a bracelet-length sleeve would be for you; this is typically about 4” above the wrist bone. On the sleeve (C), measure from the sleeve cap to your desired bracelet length. Draw a line parallel to the sleeve hem at this measurement. Mark a 1” seam allowance, down from this line. Cut along the line.



Step | 02

On the front (A), mark approximately 9-10” up from the hem on the side seam. Draw a line perpendicular from the center front fold line to the side seam at the mark. Cut along this line.



Step | 03

Draw a line at the center of the bottom front panel, parallel to the center front. Cut along this line.



Step | 04

Spread the pieces apart, approximately 10” or wider. The wider this piece, the more dramatic your ruffles will be.



Step | 05

Redraw the top and bottom edge of the ruffle piece, creating a smooth line. Add a 3/8” seam allowance to the top line.

Step | 06

Label the bottom panel “ruffle hem, cut 1 on fold.”

Step | 07

Repeat steps 2-6 for the back (B) piece.


October, 2017

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Use the techniques and ideas featured in each month’s issue to create these and other quick & lovely projects.

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Penny
Lilliana
Piedra