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Pattern Hackers: How to Draft a Slanted Patch Pocket

Break the rules with three pattern hacks for the Joss pants, by Chelsea Miller.

Posted in: Tutorials & Techniques • March 31, 2020





Everyone knows that sewing gives you superpowers. First on that long list is the ability to break the rules and make garments that represent you and your taste. We want to encourage you to think of our patterns as a blank canvas that you can customize to truly suit your style.

Our pattern hacks are designed to teach you hacking basics that help you customize patterns so that you can become a confident pattern hacker. Each month, we will show you how to draft and sew one new pattern hack, and we’ll share links to two additional pattern hacks from our pattern hacks library.

These hacks help you give your Seamwork patterns a custom spin—all you need is paper, a ruler, and a pencil!






Who doesn't love a nice big patch pocket? This month, we'll show you how to draft slanted patch pockets for your Joss pants! Our other featured hacks this month include shortening the Joss pants to shorts and eliminating the elastic to add a belt and belt loops.



Note: For best results, be sure to make any necessary fit adjustments before hacking your pattern.




HACK ONE: Slanted Patch Pockets














Draft slanted patch pockets for your Joss pants. It’s a sublte change, but it makes a really fun hack.


















DRAFTING INSTRUCTIONS








01



On some paper, draft a slanted patch pocket, like the shape shown. We drafted a slant pocket that's 7 1/4" wide and 10" tall. This is a patch pocket, so you can play with the width and length and make it any size you’d like. Check to see if the dimensions work by placing your slanted patch pocket onto the front pant pattern piece to see the proportions.

















02



Add a 5/8" seam allowance along the entire slanted patch pocket shape. Label this piece, "Slanted patch pocket, cut 2.” Draw a grainline parallel to the longest edge of the pattern piece.



















03



Cut out your slanted patch pocket pattern piece.















SEWING INSTRUCTIONS







01



Finish the bottom edge and the longest edge of the slanted patch pocket.













02



Fold the longest edge of the slanted patch pocket to the wrong side at 5/8". Press.


















03



Fold the bottom edge of the slanted patch pocket to the wrong side at 5/8". Press.







04



Fold the slanted edge of the pocket to the wrong side at 1/4". Press. Fold it once more to the wrong side at 1/2". Press.













05



On the right side of the slanted patch pocket, topstitch the slanted edge in place.















06



Align the wrong side of the slanted patch pocket to the right side of the front pant legs. Make sure the slanted edge of the pocket is closer to the side seam of the pants. Align the unfinished edge of the pocket with the side seam of the pants. Align the unfinished, top edge of the pocket with the waistline of the pants.












07



Baste the pocket in place, 1/4" from the edge of the pocket.









08



Topstitch the pocket in place 1/8" from the edge of the pocket.







09



Remove the basting stitches.







10



Sew bar tacks at the pocket opening, for extra reinforcement.







11



Repeat all steps for the second pocket.














HACK TWO: Shorts










Shorten your Joss pants into some very comfortable shorts by using this hack from issue 52.





HACK THREE: Belt with Belt Loops










Forgo the elastic in the Joss pants for a very sweet belt with belt loops from this hack from issue 52.








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