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If you've ever stood in a fitting room frustrated by swimsuits that gap in weird places, dig in uncomfortably, or just don't work for your body, I have amazing news for you. You're about to discover how to put the power back in your hands to create swimwear and cover-ups that actually fit YOUR body perfectly—no matter what style you prefer.
After years of helping sewists build wardrobes they love, I've seen how transformative it can be when you stop settling for ill-fitting ready-to-wear and start creating pieces tailored to your unique shape. Today I'm sharing 10 patterns that will revolutionize your summer wardrobe, from classic one-pieces to breezy cover-ups that make you feel amazing whether you're poolside or beachside.
Understanding Swimwear Fabric Requirements
Before we dive into specific patterns, let's talk about the most crucial element of successful swimwear sewing: fabric choice. This isn't like choosing cotton for a sundress. Swimwear demands specialized fabrics that can handle water, chlorine, salt, and constant movement.
For any one-piece swimsuit, you absolutely NEED four-way stretch fabric. That's because the fabric needs to move with you as you bend, sit, swim, or ride a water slide. Your swimsuit should feel like a second skin that moves with you, not against you. Just like your skin stretches when you reach, bend, or breathe, your fabric needs that same four-way flexibility to truly follow your body's natural movements.
Look for nylon lycra swimwear fabrics with 60-80% stretch—fabrics with only two-way stretch simply won't work for these patterns. Don't forget proper swimwear lining with the same four-way stretch properties. I particularly love textured swimwear fabrics because they add visual interest while maintaining all the technical requirements.
Classic One-Piece Styles
The Reese Swimsuit: Timeless Elegance
The Reese swimsuit is such a classic, timeless one-piece that makes so many people feel amazing. I've made the Reese myself in a puckered swimwear fabric with micro stripes, and what I absolutely love about this pattern is how the wide scoop neck at the front and deep scoop back create this stunning silhouette without any wardrobe malfunction worries.
The moderate leg cut gives you that perfect balance of coverage and style, plus it includes a shelf bra with optional cups for just the right amount of support. For me, this is the perfect classic, simple style that will always look good. I also love that the style lines are so clean that you can easily layer clothes over it, almost like a bodysuit.
We made our samples in a ribbed spandex knit from Blue Moon Fabrics, which has incredible stretch and recovery. The texture adds such beautiful visual interest while maintaining all the performance you need from swimwear.
The Crosby: Vintage Glamour with Modern Fit
When I was in my teens and twenties and absolutely obsessed with vintage clothing, I was constantly searching for the perfect vintage swimsuit with ruching down the sides. I thought they looked so glamorous and flattering, especially on curvy bodies.
Crosby gives you that modern interpretation of this classic style with a surplice bodice, shirring at the side seams, a supportive shelf bra with optional foam cups, and cute convertible straps at the back. The ruching creates such a flattering silhouette while the surplice front adds elegance.
I think Crosby looks absolutely stunning in a bright solid color, but it would also be gorgeous in polka dots or even a tropical floral. I keep imagining it in a brown and white polka dot fabric—the vintage aesthetic would be perfect for this design.
Two-Piece Options for Every Style
The Maggie: Perfect for Beginners
Here's something I love about two-piece swimsuits: they can actually be easier to sew and fit because you don't have to worry about fitting your torso length perfectly. Maggie features a scoop neckline with wide-set straps and high-waisted bottoms with a cheeky leg cut. The whole suit is fully lined, so you'll get that beautiful professional finish.
If you're brand new to sewing swimwear, we actually have a free class for Seamwork members that walks you through every step of sewing Maggie. In that class, you'll learn what to look for in swimwear fabric and lining, all about swimwear notions, how to insert swimwear elastic properly, and you'll see each instruction step in action.
The Reno: Vintage-Inspired Sophistication
For those of you drawn to vintage-inspired styles who want a two-piece, Reno is absolutely perfect. This swim top and high-waisted bottom set has such a timeless look. The swim top features seamed cups that provide soft shaping, and I love how the wide neck and back ties offer adjustable support—you can really customize the fit.
The bottoms come in two versions, both with a high-rise fit and full coverage seat that's so flattering and retro. I'd make Reno in a classic color like black, white, or red to really emphasize that timeless vintage aesthetic. The lines of the pattern really speak for themselves, so I wouldn't obscure them with a busy print.
The Kaye: Sporty Comfort
If you prefer a more sporty aesthetic, let me introduce you to Kaye. This is a soft bra and shorts set that's incredibly versatile and comfortable. The bra has wide straps and scooped front and back necklines with elastic for light support, while the shorts feature a fitted cut, mid-rise, and above mid-thigh length.
Here's a little secret: it's actually really easy to turn many bra and pantie patterns into swimwear just by swapping out the fabric and notions for swim-appropriate ones. What I love about Kaye's streamlined shape is that it's perfect for anyone who wants more coverage on the bottom.
Just remember to use swim elastic, which is specifically designed to hold up to salt water and chlorine over time. The bra portion is lined in self-fabric, and you might want to get extra fabric to underline the shorts as well, especially if you're choosing a light-colored swim fabric.
Versatile Swim Shorts
The Harrington: For Everyone
If you're sewing for someone who prefers swim trunks, or if you want versatile shorts that work as both swimwear and cover-ups, Harrington is fantastic. These vintage-inspired shorts can be made in nylon fabric as swim trunks or in woven linen or cotton for casual daytime wear.
They feature a wide elastic waistband with a drawstring for maximum comfort and mesh-lined pockets. What I particularly love about these is that they work for anyone of any gender, whether worn on their own or as a cover-up over a swimsuit.
Those mesh-lined pockets are so practical for the water since they won't fill up with air like regular pockets would. I don't know if you've ever gone in the water wearing something with pockets, but it's like stuffing a pair of water wings into your shorts—not fun!
For swim trunks, look for men's swimsuit material like poly-nylon blends, often labeled as "board short fabric." It's usually either non-stretch polyester or nylon that's specifically designed for water activities.
Breezy Cover-Ups That Elevate Your Beach Style
The Micah: Effortless Maxi Elegance
Now let's move into cover-ups, starting with Micah. This breezy maxi-length dress is perfect if you have a few yards of beautiful fabric you want to show off. It features a deep V-neckline, seams at center front and back, and a faced split hem. The easy silhouette is ideal for highlighting prints, textures, and flowy fabrics.
I prefer cover-ups that are billowy and airy, which is especially helpful when you're throwing them over a damp swimsuit. Micah is extremely cool while still protecting your skin from the sun.
I've made this dress in a light linen, which works perfectly as a cover-up. You could even use a sheer linen or cotton voile for an even more ethereal look. Look for lightweight wovens like batiste, lawn, voile, linen, rayon challis, cupro, or lyocell.
The Roan: The Perfect Oversized Shirt
If you prefer a shirt-style cover-up rather than a dress, the Roan tunic is absolutely perfect. This oversized button-down has dropped shoulders, a two-piece button-down collar, a sewn-on button placket, cuffs, and two oversized chest patch pockets. I mean, those pockets could probably hold your sunscreen, sunglasses, AND a trashy beach read!
There's also a seam at the center back, a curved hemline, and a button on the back collar. All these details will help you grow your sewing skills while making something you'll wear constantly.
The oversized fit makes it ideal for the beach or pool, thrown over a swimsuit with a hat and flip-flops. It would look amazing in white linen, or you could go for a classic striped men's shirting for that timeless nautical vibe.
The Jo: Popover Style with Personality
Another fantastic dress option is Jo, an oversized popover shirtdress with fun gathers below the front and back yokes. It features a band collar, partial placket, and a comfortable cocoon silhouette. I love the popover style because it's so easy to throw on, and you can easily shorten or lengthen the dress to change up the style completely.
This is another fun way to practice your buttonhole skills if you're working on those techniques. Use the same light to medium weight woven fabrics I mentioned for Roan, but I would avoid silk for a cover-up since it can get water spots. Tencel, rayon challis, voile, and lawn all move beautifully in this design.
The Almada: Luxurious Poolside Lounging
Let's talk about Almada, a light robe that will instantly elevate your poolside loungewear. This robe falls at mid-thigh with plenty of ease for movement and comfort, and it has this unique wide tie that cinches everything in beautifully. I love those wide sleeves too—they make it incredibly airy and perfect for hot summer days.
For lightweight woven fabrics, consider voile, poplin, twill, satin, or sateen. While Almada can be sewn in knits, I'd stick to wovens for a cover-up because most knits, other than swimwear fabrics, tend to absorb way too much water.
Building Your Swimwear Sewing Skills
If you're feeling intimidated by buttonholes or other technical details mentioned in these cover-up patterns, remember that we have extensive resources to help you master these skills. Our upcoming workshop on mastering buttonholes is a thirty-day program that covers everything you need to know while sewing a pattern of your choice, and it's free for Seamwork members.
For more robe options beyond Almada, consider the Quince day robe, which comes in both duster and jacket lengths and makes another beautiful cover-up option. Read this article about turning any top pattern into a dress for more ways to customize your cover-ups.
The key to successful swimwear and cover-up sewing is starting with quality fabrics and taking your time with the construction details. These garments need to withstand water, sun, and movement, so paying attention to seam finishes, elastic application, and proper pressing makes all the difference.
When you sew your own swimwear and cover-ups, you're not just saving money. You're creating pieces that fit your body perfectly and reflect your personal style. No more settling for styles that almost work or colors that aren't quite right.
Have you tried sewing your own swimwear before? What's been your biggest challenge, or what pattern are you most excited to try first? I'd love to hear about your summer sewing plans in the comments!
