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How to Sew Fisheye Darts

Sew an expert fisheye dart.

Posted in: Tutorials & Techniques • November 9, 2020

Double-pointed, or fisheye darts are a common design detail. This kind of dart is often found on dresses with simple lines to add shaping. Watch this video to learn some tips and tricks for contructing an expert fisheye dart.

Recommended Materials:

  • Pattern

  • Water soluble marker or chalk

  • Clear ruler

  • Sewing pins

  • Tailor's ham

  • Steam iron

Video Transcript

Let's talk darts. Darts are one of the most common shaping devices found in sewing patterns. Fisheye darts, also known as double pointed darts have two dart tips that point to fullness and are used in a variety of garments to help shape the waistline. Let me show you how it's done.

Start by transferring the dart markings from the pattern piece to the wrong side of your fabric. Mark the two dart tips and the markings at the widest part of the dart onto your fabric using a water-soluble marker or chalk. Draw the dart legs from the dart tip connecting to the markings at the widest area of the dart, then connecting to the other dart tip making a diamond shape. Now fold the dart through the center with right sides together matching up the dart legs and pin in place.

Here's a tip: pin along the dart leg so your fabrics stay secure at your dart markings.

Now it's time to sew the dart. Start at the wide, middle part of the dart, back stitching a couple of times, then sew through the dart legs to the tip right off the edge of the fabric as smoothly as you can. Leave long thread tails and do not backstitch. Return to the middle of the fisheye dart, overlapping your back stitching and sew to the other tip as you did before. Tie the thread tails into a knot at each dart tip to secure. Snip the excess thread. Depending on your pattern instructions you may need to clip into the center of the fish eye dart or trim the center of the dart and finish the raw edges. Press the dart in the direction the pattern indicates. Using a tailor's ham is helpful to get the dart tip flat if you have one. And now you have a fisheye dart! Repeat these steps for any remaining fisheye darts on your pattern.

What are your favorite type of darts to sew? Do you like fisheye darts, or do you like standard darts? Comment and let us know! Don't forget to subscribe so you don't miss out on our future quick tip videos. Thanks! Happy sewing!

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