Block Paper Scissors is a monthly column featuring patternmaking hacks that will help you give your Seamwork patterns a custom spin—all you need is paper, a ruler, and a pencil!
This hack walks you through creating a contrast front and back yoke for Eugene. This creates the perfect opportunity for color blocking, and is great for helping you use up your small knit scraps.
Note: Be sure to make any fit adjustments before performing the pattern hack.
- Tracing paper
- Paper scissors
Step | 01
Mark a straight line on pattern piece front (A) perpendicular to the center front, through the circle placement mark for the placket (D). Cut along the marked line, marked in pink above.
Step | 02
You will now have a front yoke and a front pattern piece. Add a 3/8” seam allowance to the front pattern piece along the top edge. Cut 2 of the front yoke in a contrast color. The front will remain as in the pattern instructions (cut 1 on the fold).
Step | 03
Measure the length of the pattern piece along the armscye from the shoulder to the bottom edge of the pattern piece. Transfer that measurement to the back (B) pattern piece armhole, measuring down from the shoulder. Draw a line that is perpendicular to the center back that intersects with the point marks at the back armscye. Cut along this line.
Step | 04
You will now have a back yoke and a back pattern piece. Add a 3/8” seam allowance to the bottom edge of the back and front yoke. Add a 3/8” seam allowance to the top edge of the back pattern piece. Cut 1 of the back yoke on the fold in a contrast color. The back piece will be cut 1 on the fold.
For assembly, first sew the back yoke to the back pattern piece. Follow the instructions for finishing the back.
Follow the instructions for sewing the shoulders of the front and back yoke together.
Skip the section regarding the sleeves and side seams, and continue with assembling the placket and collar. Baste the placket in place along the bottom edges.
Once the placket has been attached to the front yoke and the collar has been applied to the neckline, sew the front pattern piece to the front yoke.
Follow the pattern instructions for sewing the sleeves (C) and side seams. Then, continue following the instructions for hemming and finishing the shirt.
For additional color blocking, make the sleeve cuffs (F) out of the same color fabric as the front and back yoke pieces.