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Hemming might seem like the simplest part of sewing, but it's often what separates a handmade garment that looks professional from one that looks homemade. In this episode, we break down everything you need to know about choosing the right hem for every project and troubleshooting common hemming problems.
Your hem is literally the foundation that anchors your garment - it gives weight, structure, and that beautiful finish we're all aiming for. The challenge is that there isn't just one way to hem, and knowing which technique to use for different fabrics and garment types can feel overwhelming.
6 Tips to Perfect Your Hems
Tip 1: Choose Between Narrow and Wide Hems
The width of your hem affects both how your garment looks and how it functions. This choice should be driven by your fabric weight, garment style, and the look you're trying to achieve.
For narrow hems (½" or less), these work beautifully with lightweight fabrics like chiffon, silk, or voile. They're perfect for curved edges like circle skirts where a wider hem would pucker and create unwanted bulk. Use them when you want minimal weight at the bottom of your garment, and they're also proportionally better for children's clothing where wide hems can look overwhelming.
For wide hems (1" or more), these add weight and structure to heavier fabrics like denim, wool, or canvas. They help straight-edge garments hang properly and look more proportional on formal garments. Wide hems can also add a design element when finished with topstitching. For example, the Yarrow skirt uses a wide hem that mimics the proportions of the pleats and adds subtle structure to the overall silhouette.
Tip 2: Decide Between Visible and Blind Hems
This choice really impacts the finished look of your garment and should align with both your style goals and the formality of the piece.
Visible hems are great for casual garments like t-shirts, jeans, and everyday wear. They can actually become a design feature, like the characteristic topstitching on denim. They're necessary for knit fabrics that need stretch in the hem, and they're simpler and faster if you're working within time constraints.
Blind hems should be your choice for more formal or special occasion pieces. They create that invisible, high-end finish that looks store-bought and are worth the extra time investment for garments you want to look particularly polished. They're especially effective for tailored pieces where you want clean, uninterrupted lines.
Keep in mind that fabric can also dictate this choice - some fabrics show every stitch no matter what technique you use, while others hide stitches beautifully and give you more flexibility in your approach.
Tip 3: Know When to Hand Stitch Versus Machine Stitch
Both methods have their place in your hemming toolkit, and understanding when to use each will improve your results dramatically.
Hand stitching is ideal when you're working with delicate or slippery fabrics that might be damaged by machine stitching, when you want ultimate control and precision, or when you're making something special and are willing to invest the time. It's also your best option for fabrics where even a blind hem stitch might show through to the right side.
Machine stitching works best when you need efficiency and durability, you're using stable fabrics that feed well through the machine, you want to incorporate a decorative stitch as a design feature, or you're working with knits that need stretch in the hem.
For example, when working with silk charmeuse on patterns like the Dezi slip dress, hand stitching with a catch stitch allows you to secure the hem with nearly invisible stitches from the right side. Taking the time to hand stitch certain hems actually saves time in the long run, because you won't need to rip out and redo machine stitching that didn't look right.
Tip 4: Have the Right Hemming Tools on Hand
Having proper tools makes hemming so much easier and more accurate. Quality tools are an investment that will improve every single hem you sew.
Essential tools include a good iron and pressing cloth, since pressing is honestly 80% of achieving a professional-looking hem. A hem gauge for measuring consistent hem depths is crucial - inconsistent hem width is a dead giveaway of homemade construction. Wonder Clips help hold your hem in place without pins that can distort fabric, while sharp shears ensure clean cuts on your initial hem allowance.
For hand sewing, invest in quality needles and choose finer needles for delicate fabrics. A water-soluble marker or tailor's chalk is essential for marking hem folds accurately. Additional helpful tools include a point turner for crisp corners and a sleeve board for hemming narrow pieces like sleeves.
For specialty hems, tools like a rolled hem foot or a coverstitch machine are amazing investments if you do a lot of sewing. These tools can transform your hemming from a chore into a satisfying finishing technique.
Tip 5: Master Different Techniques for Different Fabrics
Each fabric type has hemming techniques that work best with its particular characteristics. Matching your technique to your fabric will give you consistently better results.
For lightweight wovens like chiffon, silk, or voile, the rolled hem is perfect. It's delicate, doesn't add bulk, and looks super professional. A rolled hem foot makes this technique much easier to execute consistently.
For medium-weight fabrics like cotton, linen, and light wool, the double-fold hem is your versatile go-to. This is probably the most common hemming technique and works for most everyday garments. It's reliable, sturdy, and gives a clean finish.
For heavyweight fabrics like denim, canvas, or coating-weight wool, consider a bias-bound hem. This technique reduces bulk while creating a clean finish and is a game-changer for bulky fabrics that would otherwise create unwanted thickness.
For knit fabrics, you need techniques that maintain stretch. A twin needle hem creates parallel lines of straight stitches with a zigzag on the wrong side. A narrow zigzag stitch provides stretch without looking too casual. If you have a coverstitch machine, this creates the most professional finish. You can also add a separate band of fabric, like on the Alice tee pattern.
Tip 6: Troubleshoot Common Hemming Problems
Even experienced sewists encounter hemming challenges. Knowing how to fix these common issues will save you time and frustration.
For rippled or wavy hems, use Wonder Tape to stabilize the hem before stitching, slightly ease in fullness when hemming curves, and adjust your presser foot pressure - sometimes less pressure helps. Most importantly, press thoroughly before and after stitching.
For visible hem stitches on the right side, use thread that matches your fabric exactly and lower your tension slightly. For textured fabrics, stitches will naturally sink in and become less visible. When doing blind hemming, catch just a thread or two of the fashion fabric.
For bulky hems that show through on the right side, trim the hem allowance to reduce bulk, grade your seam allowances within the hem by trimming them to different widths, use lighter interfacing to stabilize without adding weight, or consider a faced hem instead of a folded hem for very heavy fabrics.
For circular skirts, try this professional trick: let the hem hang for 24 hours before hemming, then measure up from the floor for an even hemline. Gravity affects how fabric hangs, and this technique ensures your finished hem will be perfectly even.
What's your biggest hemming challenge? Have you discovered any techniques that transformed your hemming results? Share your experiences in the comments!
