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Sewing your own swimwear can feel intimidating, especially when choosing fabric. Unlike regular fabrics, swimwear requires specific technical properties to create comfortable, durable suits. In this episode of Seamwork Radio, hosts Sarai and Haley break down what you need to know to confidently select the right materials.
Why Fabric Choice Matters
The right fabric is crucial for swimwear that stays in place, provides coverage, and withstands water, chlorine, and sun exposure. Good fabric selection sets the foundation for a comfortable, flattering swimsuit that lasts for years.
Essential Fabric Properties
Fiber Content
Look for blends with:
-
80-90% nylon or polyester - provides durability and softness -
10-20% spandex - gives stretch and recovery -
Minimum 10% spandex - anything less won't work for swimwear
Four-Way Stretch
Test your fabric by pulling it both horizontally and vertically. Good swimwear fabric should:
- Stretch at least 50% in both directions
- Allow a 4-inch piece to stretch to 6 inches
- Provide comfort around curves like bust and hips
Recovery Test
Recovery is how well fabric returns to its original shape:
- Stretch fabric firmly and hold for 30 seconds
- Good fabric snaps back instantly and completely
- Poor recovery leads to saggy, loose-fitting suits
Fabric Options to Consider
Specialty Textures
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Ribbed or piqué spandex - adds visual interest and can be slimming -
Performance fabrics - offer compression and moisture-wicking for active wear -
Sustainable options - ECONYL regenerated nylon or Repreve recycled polyester
Color Considerations
-
Darker colors - more chlorine-resistant, hide wear better -
Bold prints - forgiving of construction imperfections -
Light colors - may become transparent when wet, always line properly
Don't Forget the Lining
Choose appropriate lining for comfort and durability:
-
Power mesh - for support and compression -
Soft tricot - for comfort -
Skin-tone colors - better than white for light-colored suits
Match Fabric to Use
-
Active swimming/water sports - compression fabrics with high spandex content -
Pool lounging - prioritize fashion and interesting textures -
Children's swimwear - focus on durability and bright colors for safety -
Regular pool use - choose chlorine-resistant options
Where to Shop
Online Specialty Stores
- Spandex House
- Spandex World
- The Fabric Fairy
Independent Fabric Stores
- Stonemountain & Daughter
- Blackbird Fabrics
- The Fabric Store
Pro tip: Always order swatches first - colors on screen can be deceiving, and you need to test stretch and feel in person.
Essential Notions
Regular notions won't work for swimwear. You need:
-
Swimwear elastic - rubber (most durable), plush-back (comfort), or clear (straps) -
Polyester thread - never cotton -
Wooly nylon - for serger loopers -
Foam cups - for support and modesty
Beyond Swimwear
Swimwear fabric is versatile for other projects:
- Activewear (leggings, sports bras)
- Underwear and bralettes
- Dance and costume wear
Quick Reference Checklist
Before buying swimwear fabric, ensure it has:
- ✓ 80-90% nylon/polyester + 10-20% spandex
- ✓ Four-way stretch (50% minimum)
- ✓ Good recovery (snaps back instantly)
- ✓ Appropriate color for intended use
- ✓ Coordinating lining fabric
- ✓ Proper notions for construction
