How Much Should I Really Spend on Fabric?

If you’re trying to sew without spending a ton of money, your fabric choice can make or break your budget. So how much do you really need to spend on fabric? When should you spend a little more, and when can you save money on a more affordable option?

Shopping for fabric is kind of like shopping for shoes. You can trust some reputable brands out of the box. You might find the deal of your life in the clearance section. And there might be a big difference between designer fabrics and knock-offs, but sometimes there’s not.

Why are there different price points?

Look at greige goods if you want to know why there can be such a vast difference in fabric prices. Greige goods are unprocessed textiles—the raw fibers before they are treated and dyed or printed to get to their final form. This is the fabric in its cheapest state, but it’s likely not what you want to use to sew clothes.

The image on the left is raw linen. This feels scratchy on your skin, like burlap, and it doesn’t have a good drape. The image on the right is washed linen from Blackbird Fabrics. This linen has been washed, dyed, and treated to give it a fluid drape and a soft hand, much more ideal for sewing clothing.

Think about cotton, for example. The closer the cotton is to the plant, the courser, scratchier, and more fibrous it is. The more it’s treated—it might be washed, scoured, and brushed—the softer it gets.

On the left is a fun quilting cotton. On the right is a piece of Libery of London lawn. They have similar vibes but drastically different price tags. In all fairness, the Liberty fabric has an incredibly soft hand, even compared to other lawns. Lawn is a far superior cotton for garment sewing, so if you can find a printed lawn that reminds you of your favorite name brand, you can save money.

Another example is silk. Raw silk fibers haven’t been washed, degummed, treated, or steamed. The closer silk is to this raw state, the less expensive it will be. Silk noil, for example, is made from shorter, leftover silk fibers, which give it a nubby texture. In comparison, longer strands of silk can be washed and treated to increase the luster on the final fabric. These treatments cost money, so the more steps until the fabric is finished, the more the price tag goes up.

The jersey on the right costs twice as much as the jersey on the left. There is a slight difference in hand, but these two fabrics are equally suitable for the same project. It’s up to you if you want to pay for organic materials.

Is it all about quality?

If a fabric is more expensive, it should be of higher quality, right? But that depends on what quality means to you. Here is an overview of some of the biggest differences between fabrics at different price points.

Quality: Speaking of quality in general terms, it includes things like the percentage of certain higher-priced fibers (think silk versus silk blends), the thread count, special treatments to increase comfort (think cashmere), durability, and if the fabric is prone to pilling or fraying.

Colors: You’re often paying more for that trendy shade or print. Cheaper fabrics might also use dyes that are more prone to bleeding or fading.

Sustainability: Organic and eco-friendly fabrics are often more expensive. Although, as demand grows, textile manufacturers will offer more options, lowering the costs.

Marketing: This is similar to the note about paying more for trendy prints. Designer names don’t always mean the fabric is amazing. Some fabrics have a reputation and can charge a little more. Branding, marketing, and even shipping all factor into a fabric’s final cost.

The denim on the left has a price tag that’s twice that of the denim on the right. While both denims have the same weight, the more expensive denim has dye that did not fade as much in the wash.

How much do you really need to spend?

It would be great if there were a formula to help you decide what to spend, but as with almost anything sewing-related, it depends on the type of fabric you’ll be using. Some fibers are worth buying mid-range or higher. For others, it isn't as crucial. No matter what, your preference and your budget affect your decision the most.

Linen is a fabric with a playful budget. 100% linens can be more expensive, but it can also be scratchier until well worn in. Linen blends often have a softer hand and good drape in comparison. So if you can’t swing a 100% linen fabric, look for cotton and rayon blends.

So, like we often recommend, before you go fabric shopping, do a little pre-interview for your pattern—ask yourself the following questions.

If I buy a cheaper fabric, will I be sacrificing any important qualities like breathability, comfort against my skin, or natural fiber content?

Do I need a durable textile that will last a long time, or am I ok with this garment not lasting as long?

Is this a gift or a personal heirloom? You might want to spend more here.

Is sustainability a priority for me? The organic price tag might be worth it.

Do I need a lot of yardage? If so, a more affordable option might be more realistic for your budget. On the other hand, if you only need a yard, maybe you can get yourself a treat.

Will this fabric make my project look and wear significantly different than a more expensive option?

Look at the answers to these questions and ask yourself, can you use a more affordable fabric for this project? Or should you buy the more expensive option?

The jersey on the left is imported from Japan, so it was pricey. However, despite some variation in color and stripes, it’s nearly identical to the bargain-bin jersey on the right.

Fact check: Does cheaper fabric fall apart quicker?

Is it just our tech devices, or does fabric production also have planned obsolescence? This is a tricky question given the state of fast fashion, and the overall answer is that it depends.

The tag on the bolt of fabric only tells us so much about how it was produced. There are so many other factors that go into how long a garment will last. For example, did you choose the right seam finish for your fabric? Did you pre-wash correctly, and will you continue to wash the garment with care?

How you treat the garment can affect its lifetime more severely than the fabric’s properties. So you have the power to prolong its wearability if you carefully follow the care instructions.

Save money with smart fabric shopping

Look for blends. Look for a cotton, polyester, or rayon blend if you really want wool but can’t afford the price tag. This tip works very well for pricey linens.

Fake it or swap it. Some luxury fabrics have perfectly acceptable faux siblings. Instead of leather, look for vegan options or faux suede. Instead of silk, look for satin or noil.

Shop deadstock for designer deals. You can often find designer one-offs at affordable prices. We recommend Fabcycle, Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics, Blackbird Fabrics, and A Thrifty Notion if you want to take advantage of exclusive Seamwork discounts.

Learn your fabric terms. When shopping, look at how the fabric store describes the drape and weight and then compare options at different price points.

When in doubt, do a pill check. Rub a small swatch of the fabric together vigorously between your fingers. Does it pill? If so, it might not last as long—but remember, this can still happen to fabrics with a high price tag.

As you can see, how much you should really spend on fabric depends on your budget and what you want out of your garment. Think about the intent behind your project and about how much you will wear it before you decide.

Finally, to reiterate, in order to make sure your fabric lasts longer—no matter what it costs—you have to care for it properly. Research the fiber content or follow the directions on the manufacturer's tag, and even cheaper fabrics will last longer. When in doubt, hand wash and air dry!