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Everyone knows that sewing gives you superpowers. First on that long list is the ability to break the rules and make garments that represent you and your taste. We want to encourage you to think of our patterns as a blank canvas that you can customize to truly suit your style.
Our pattern hacks are designed to teach you hacking basics that help you customize patterns so that you can become a confident pattern hacker. Each month, we will show you how to draft and sew one new pattern hack, and we'll share links to two additional pattern hacks from our pattern hacks library.
These hacks help you give your Seamwork patterns a custom spin—all you need is paper, a ruler, and a pencil!
Play up your pocket style with this month's hack! We'll be teaching you how to create a style line and hidden pockets on your Rhett jacket. Our other featured hacks this month include adding sleeve cuffs and adding a yoke with a back pleat.
Note: For best results, be sure to make any necessary fit adjustments before hacking your pattern.
HACK ONE: Hidden Pockets
Hack your Rhett jacket for a style line with hidden pockets.
DRAFTING INSTRUCTIONS
Measure how far down you would like the style line to be on the front of your Rhett jacket. Draw a horizontal line on your front pattern piece.
Cut along the style line of the front piece.
Label the top front piece “Top front, cut 2” and the bottom front “Bottom front, cut 2”.
Add 5/8" (15 mm) seam allowance to the two pieces where you cut them apart.
On some paper, draw your hidden pocket pattern piece. Draw a square/rectangle the width you would like the pocket to be. The height will be the same height that your new 'bottom front' piece is, but minus 1 1/4". We did 7" wide by 8" high.
Draw a 5/8" (15 mm) seam allowance around the pocket piece. Draw circle markings at the top of the pocket, between the seam allowances.
Cut out the hidden pocket. Lable this piece "Hidden pocket, cut 4".
On the top front, make circle markings where you would like your hidden pocket to be. The circle markings will be the width of the hidden pocket, minus the seam allowance. Repeat this marking for the corresponding bottom front piece.
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
Finish all the edges of your hidden pocket pieces with a serged edge or zigzag stitch. Finish the bottom edge of the top fronts. Finish the top edge of the bottom fronts.
With right sides together and circles aligned, match one hidden pocket with the bottom front. Pin. Stitch between the circle markings at 1/2" (13 mm).
Press the hidden pocket up and away from the bottom front. Understitch along the hidden pocket, catching the seam allowances underneath.
With right sides together and circles aligned, match one hidden pocket to the top front piece. Pin. Stitch at 1/2" (13 mm).
Press the hidden pocket down and away from the top front. Understitch along the hidden pocket, catching the seam allowances underneath.
Clip through the seam allowaces at the circles, but being careful not to clip past the stitching on the top front and bottom front pieces.
With right sides together, circles, and hidden pockets aligned, match the top front and bottom front along the style line. Pin.
Stitch from the side seam to the first circle on the hidden pocket at 5/8" (15 mm). Pivot at the circle and sew around the hidden pockets, pivot at the other circle and stitch the rest of the seam.
Clip through the seam allowaces at the circles, but being careful not to clip past the stitching.
Press the seam allowances open.
Optional: On the right side of the front unit, make bar tacks at the corners of the hidden pocket to reinforce.
Repeat all the steps for the other side of the front.
Continue sewing the jacket according to the instructions. When topstitching the hem of the jacket, make sure to include the very bottom of the hidden pockets in the stitching, so they'll be sewn in place.
HACK TWO: Sleeve Cuffs
HACK THREE: Back yoke and pleat
Chelsea Miller
Technical Illustrator
When she isn't pattern hacking, Chelsea is drawing step-by-step pattern instructions in Illustrator. As the Technical Illustrator here at Seamwork, she loves to make our instructions easy to follow and fun to read.
