Seamwork
 

Pattern Hackers

Break the rules with three pattern hacks for the Quince day robe.

Everyone knows that sewing gives you superpowers. First on that long list is the ability to break the rules and make garments that represent you and your taste. We want to encourage you to think of our patterns as a blank canvas that you can customize to truly suit your style.

Our pattern hacks are designed to teach you hacking basics that help you customize patterns so that you can become a confident pattern hacker. Each month, we will show you how to draft and sew one new pattern hack, and we’ll share links to two additional pattern hacks from our pattern hacks library.

These hacks help you give your Seamwork patterns a custom spin—all you need is paper, a ruler, and a pencil!

This month, we teach you how to create a duster-length day robe with a faced split hem. You can also check out two additional hacks. One will help you create a notched neckband, and the other adds a center back pleat.


Note: For best results, be sure to make any necessary fit adjustments before hacking your pattern.

You’ll Need:

  • The Quince day robe
  • Paper
  • Pencil
  • Scissors
  • Tape
  • Clear ruler


HACK ONE: Split-Hem Duster

Add a touch of drama to your Quince day robe with two simple updates. Try extending the length of the pattern and adding a faced split hem for a super glamorous layering piece. These hacks are great when paired together but you can also use them individually.

DRAFTING INSTRUCTIONS

01 | Use a blank piece of pattern paper to extend the hemline of the front robe by 8-10”. Cut.


02 | Repeat, extending the neckband and back pieces by the same amount. Cut.


03 | On your front and back robe pattern pieces, mark the vent depth at the sewing line, 12” up from the hem.


04 | On a separate piece of pattern paper, trace the hem and side seam of the front and back robe. Transfer the vent marking.

04 | On a separate piece of pattern paper, trace the hem and side seam of the front and back robe. Transfer the vent marking.


05 | Using a clear ruler, draw hem facings that are 2 1/8” wide, allowing for a 5/8” seam allowance, and a 1 1/2” finished facing. The facing should extend 1 1/2” above the side vent mark.


06 | Remove the 5/8” seam allowance along the center back facing.


07 | Label the front facing “front hem facing: cut 2” and the back facing “back hem facing: cut 1 on fold.”

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

01 | Finish the inner raw edges of the front hem facing and back hem facing using a zigzag stitch or serger.

02 | With right sides together, sew the front hem facing to the back hem facing at the side seams above the vent marking.

03 | Clip through the seam allowance at the circle to the stitch line. Press the seam allowances open.

04 | Assemble the robe according to the pattern instructions. When you reach the “Sew Side Seam” section, sew the side seam starting at the sleeve hem, stopping at the vent marking.

05 | Clip through the seam allowance at the circle to the stitch line. Press the seam allowances open.

06 | With right sides together, notches and side seams aligned, match the hem facing unit to the hem. Pin. Stitch.

07 | Trim and grade the seam allowances. Clip the corners.

08 | Understitch along the hem facing unit, catching the seam allowances underneath. You will not be able to stitch all the way to the corners, but get as close as you can.

09 | Fold the hem facing unit to the inside of the robe, using a point turner for the corners. Press. Topstitch along the top edge of the hem facing unit, through all layers. Press.

10 | Finish sewing your garment according to the pattern instructions.

For additional ideas and pictures of this hack, be sure to check out our article on how to draft and attach a faced split hem. This article hacks the Loretta top into a tunic with a faced split hem.


HACK TWO:
Notched Neckband

Try adding a notched neckband to the Quince day robe by using this hack from Seamwork issue 22.

HACK THREE:
Center Back Pleat

Try adding a center back pleat to the Quince day robe by using this hack from Seamwork issue 37.

Flor
Billie
Dezi

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