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Knit sewing can be incredibly rewarding, but it also comes with unique challenges that can make or break your finished garment. Today we're sharing five specialty notions that professional sewists use to create polished, comfortable knit garments that last.
These aren't your typical ballpoint needles and walking feet—we're talking about the secret weapons that solve common knit sewing problems like wavy seams, uncomfortable elastics, and hems that just won't lay flat.
5 Secret Notions That Will Transform Your Knit Sewing
Whether you're working on a fitted bodycon dress or a casual knit top, these specialty notions will help you achieve professional results that feel as good as they look.
Notion 1: Plush-Back Elastic
If you've ever worn a bra that left red marks on your shoulders, you understand why plush-back elastic is a game-changer. This specialty elastic features a soft, velvety side that sits against your skin and a smooth side for attaching to fabric.
Plush-back elastic is perfect for shelf bras in dresses, sports bra bands, and any application where elastic might touch your skin directly. It stays in place without digging in, creating a comfortable, professional finish.
To use it correctly, position the soft, plush side against your skin. Pin it in place with right sides together, then sew with a zigzag stitch while stretching slightly. Flip the elastic to the inside and topstitch using a 3-step zigzag stitch for a secure, flexible finish.
Notion 2: Wooly Nylon Thread
Wooly nylon thread is fuzzy, stretchy, and practically invisible—making it the perfect secret weapon for knit sewing. Unlike regular thread, wooly nylon stretches with your fabric instead of breaking or creating tension points.
This specialty thread works beautifully in both regular sewing machines and sergers. For fitted garments, it's especially valuable because it prevents seam popping when the fabric stretches. It's also incredibly soft against the skin, which is crucial for form-fitting styles.
Wind wooly nylon loosely onto your bobbin and use regular thread in your needle for topstitching. In a serger, use it in all loopers for seams that stretch without popping—just remember to loosen your tension slightly. It's particularly effective for securing elastic, hemming necklines and armholes, and creating stretchy seams in fitted areas.
Notion 3: Wonder Tape
Wonder Tape is like having an extra pair of hands when sewing knits. This double-sided, water-soluble tape holds fabric in place without pins, preventing the stretching and puckering that can plague knit projects.
Unlike pins, which create little bumps and allow fabric to stretch between them, Wonder Tape provides continuous, even support. This is what prevents those frustrating wavy seams that can make an otherwise beautiful garment look homemade.
Use Wonder Tape for hems by applying it along your folded edge before stitching. It's also invaluable for necklines—run a strip along the edge before applying binding to prevent stretching. When attaching straps, Wonder Tape keeps them perfectly positioned. The best part? It completely dissolves when you wash your garment, leaving no residue. For fabrics that can't be washed immediately, simply dab with a damp cloth to dissolve the tape.
Notion 4: Fusible Knit Interfacing
Regular interfacing and knit fabrics don't mix well—it's like wearing a rigid corset under a stretchy dress. Fusible knit interfacing is specifically designed to add stability while preserving the fabric's natural stretch and drape.
The key is strategic placement rather than interfacing entire pattern pieces. Use thin strips along areas that need extra support, such as slit edges before hemming, strap attachment points, and the upper edge of shelf bras. For bodycon styles, wider pieces can add structure to areas like the upper back where fitted garments might sag with wear.
If you can't find dedicated knit interfacing, power mesh or stretch mesh work as excellent alternatives. Learn more about choosing the right interfacing for your projects. Simply cut to size and baste between your fabric layers before constructing the seam.
Notion 5: Fold-Over Elastic (FOE)
Fold-over elastic might be the most versatile notion on this list. Pre-folded with a center crease, it allows you to encase raw edges in one simple step, creating a clean finish without bulk.
FOE comes in countless colors and fun prints, making it perfect for adding personality to your garments. For fitted knit styles, it's an excellent alternative to traditional hemming because it creates a smooth, low-profile finish that won't create unwanted lines or indentations.
To apply fold-over elastic, cut it to match your edge length without stretching. Align the fabric edge with the middle of the elastic and use a zigzag stitch to baste along the innermost edge. Trim excess fabric, fold the elastic along the fold line, and topstitch with another zigzag. For visible edges like necklines or armholes, try using contrasting FOE as a design feature—black elastic on bright fabric creates a sporty, modern look.
These five specialty notions can transform your knit sewing from frustrating to fantastic. Each one solves specific challenges that regular notions just can't handle, giving you the tools to create professional-looking garments that feel as good as they look.
What's your biggest challenge when sewing with knits? Have you tried any of these specialty notions? Share your experiences in the comments!
