Sign In
In this episode of Seamwork Radio, Sarai and Haley share their top five fabric recommendations for summer sewing projects. While fall sewing often gets the spotlight with its cozy sweaters and wool coats, summer sewing offers unique opportunities to create comfortable, colorful garments perfect for hot weather. Discover which fabrics will keep you cool and looking stylish all season long, along with pattern recommendations that showcase each fabric's best qualities.
Why Summer Fabric Choices Matter
When temperatures rise, the fabrics you choose become crucial for comfort. As Sarai points out, every summer brings at least one intense heat wave that can leave you feeling unprepared if you don't have the right clothing options.
Summer also provides the perfect opportunity to experiment with bold colors, prints, and silhouettes that might feel too adventurous during other seasons. The right fabric makes all the difference between a summer garment you wear constantly and one that languishes in your closet.
Beyond just breathability, summer fabrics need to balance several qualities: they should feel good against your skin, maintain their shape throughout the day, resist wrinkling (or wrinkle beautifully), and complement your preferred summer silhouettes, whether you favor loose, flowy garments or more fitted styles.
The 5 Best Fabrics for Summer Sewing
1. Linen: The Ultimate Summer Classic
Linen stands as perhaps the quintessential summer fabric, with good reason. Made from flax plant fibers, it has been used for thousands of years, particularly in hot climates where its unique properties shine.
What makes linen perfect for summer:
- Exceptional breathability and moisture-wicking capabilities
- Unlike many fabrics, linen actually gets stronger when wet
- Its beautiful, natural texture looks casual yet elevated
- Available in various weights to suit different projects
Many sewists initially struggle with linen's tendency to wrinkle, but Haley suggests embracing these creases as part of linen's natural charm and lived-in aesthetic. The fabric comes in different weights, each suited to specific garments:
- Lightweight linens work beautifully for flowy dresses and loose tops
- Midweight varieties are perfect for pants, skirts, and more structured tops
- Heavier linens can even function well for summer jackets or tailored pieces
Recommended Seamwork patterns for linen include the Joss pull-on pants (a breezy summer staple), the Del relaxed jumpsuit, and the Baker smock dress. These designs showcase linen's natural drape while allowing for ease of movement in hot weather.
2. Eyelet Lace: Ventilated Elegance
Eyelet lace represents quintessential summer style with its decorative perforations and dimensional texture. This fabric features small holes or "eyelets" punched into the material, typically arranged in beautiful patterns.
What makes eyelet perfect for summer:
- The perforations create natural ventilation to keep you cool
- Its three-dimensional texture adds interest to even simple garments
- The fabric offers a feminine, classic appeal that can also be styled in modern ways
When working with eyelet, keep these considerations in mind:
- You'll typically need to line or underline eyelet, at least partially
- While cotton eyelet is most common, linen-blend eyelets combine two excellent summer fabrics
- Beyond classic white, colored eyelets (including pastels and black) offer fresh options
- Underlining eyelet with a bright color can create a striking visual effect
Sarai mentions that Seamwork offers a helpful YouTube video covering five techniques for sewing with eyelet. Recommended Seamwork patterns include the Yarrow skirt (perfect for border prints) and the Reed shift dress, which has been featured on the Seamwork website in an eyelet sample.
3. Cotton Lawn: Crisp Comfort
Cotton lawn represents the perfect balance of structure and drape for summer garments. This lightweight, fine cotton fabric features a smooth, crisp hand that behaves beautifully in warm weather.
What makes cotton lawn perfect for summer:
- Being 100% cotton ensures breathability and natural comfort
- Its unique balance of structure and drape prevents clinging while maintaining shape
- The fabric takes prints exceptionally well, making it ideal for floral patterns
- Easy care and maintenance—typically machine washable
Haley describes cotton lawn as "the summer equivalent of wool flannel"—a fabric that behaves predictably and feels wonderful to work with. She considers it an accessible luxury; while not as expensive as silk, it offers a high-quality feel that elevates your summer garments.
Liberty of London's Tana lawn represents the gold standard in this category, known for its fine quality and distinctive prints. Haley mentions that Seamwork offers videos about both Liberty fabrics and sewing with cotton.
Recommended Seamwork patterns for cotton lawn include the Leighanne sundress, which showcases lawn's beautiful print possibilities, and the Fifer top, where lawn's crispness perfectly supports the ruffle neckline detail.
4. Rayon Challis: Flowing and Soft
Rayon challis serves as a true summer wardrobe workhorse, offering incredible softness and beautiful drape. This lightweight, semi-synthetic fabric features a soft, slightly matte texture perfect for many summer garments.
What makes rayon challis perfect for summer:
- Exceptional softness against the skin—almost imperceptible when wearing
- Beautiful, flowing drape that moves gracefully with the body
- Despite its lightweight nature, it typically provides adequate opacity
- Available in endless prints and colors to suit any aesthetic
Sarai notes that rayon does absorb moisture, making it less ideal for extremely hot, sweaty conditions. However, for everyday summer wear, its comfort is unmatched.
Working with rayon challis requires some care, as the fabric can shift during cutting and sewing. Sarai recommends using a rotary cutter and mat for more accurate cutting. Seamwork offers a YouTube video specifically about sewing with rayon to help navigate this beautiful but sometimes tricky fabric.
Recommended Seamwork patterns for rayon challis include the Ash top, Sage dress, and Porter tank, all of which take advantage of rayon's exceptional drape and movement.
5. Swimwear Fabric: Technical Performance
Swimwear fabric rounds out the top five summer fabrics, offering technical performance for both water activities and active summer lifestyles. Typically a four-way stretch nylon-spandex blend, this fabric is specifically engineered for water exposure.
What makes swimwear fabric perfect for summer:
- Designed to withstand chlorine, salt water, and sun exposure
- Quick-drying properties essential for water activities
- Four-way stretch ensures comfort and freedom of movement
- Modern swimwear fabrics come in endless prints and colors
Beyond making actual swimwear, this versatile fabric works well for activewear designed for hot weather, including bike shorts and leggings.
When sewing with swimwear fabric, Haley recommends:
- Using a ballpoint or stretch needle to prevent damage to the fabric
- Employing a walking foot to prevent stretching during sewing
- Using wooly nylon thread in serger loopers for more comfortable seams against the skin
- Working with specialized swimwear elastic designed to withstand chlorine
While many sewists feel intimidated by swimwear projects, Haley assures listeners that the technique becomes satisfying once mastered, with custom-fitted swimwear offering a significant improvement over ready-to-wear options. Seamwork offers video resources specifically for sewing swimwear.
Recommended Seamwork patterns for swimwear fabric include the Reese (a perfect canvas for printed swim fabric), the Maggie (a vintage-inspired two-piece), and the Kaye lounge set with a bra top and bike shorts—ideal for outdoor summer adventures.
Creating Your Perfect Summer Wardrobe
Armed with knowledge about these five fantastic summer fabrics, you can create a comfortable, stylish wardrobe perfectly suited to hot weather. While each fabric offers unique benefits, they all share the essential qualities needed for summer comfort: breathability, comfort against the skin, and beautiful drape or structure.
Consider mixing these fabrics throughout your summer sewing projects to create a versatile wardrobe. Perhaps a linen jumpsuit for casual outings, an eyelet dress for summer parties, cotton lawn tops for everyday wear, flowing rayon skirts for breezy comfort, and custom swimwear for beach days.
Summer sewing offers the opportunity to create garments that are both functional and expressive. With temperatures rising, having a wardrobe made from these cooling, comfortable fabrics ensures you'll stay comfortable while looking stylish all season long.
