The Vallie jeans are straight-leg jeans designed for non-stretch denim, with a fitted waist, hip, and upper thigh that opens into a straight, generously proportioned leg. Inspired by the easy, confident denim silhouettes of the 1970s, Vallie brings a vintage sensibility to a fresh, modern shape. The result is a pair of jeans that feels structured and considered without feeling overly styled—easy to wear with the tops you already love.
Vallie features all the details you expect from a great pair of jeans, including a traditional zipper fly with a tack button closure, curved front pockets, shaped back patch pockets, and a back yoke for a flattering fit. A discreet in-seam coin pocket is tucked between the waistband and pocket facing, adding a clever bit of function without interrupting the clean lines of the front.
Seven belt loops provide plenty of anchor points for your favorite belt, while double-fold hems give the jeans a clean, durable finish. Classic topstitching throughout highlights the construction and adds that unmistakable jeanswear character.
The beauty of Vallie is in its versatility. Pair them with a simple tee and sneakers for an everyday uniform, dress them up with a fitted blouse and boots, or tuck in a favorite sweater for an easy weekend look. Sewn in different washes, weights, or colors, each pair can take on its own personality while keeping the same timeless silhouette.
Eden is wearing the Vallie jeans in a size 2, graded to between a 4 and a 6 at the hip and throughout the leg. We also added 1 3/4" to the rise depth and 1" to the inseam length. Her measurements are waist: 25 3/4" (65.4 cm), hip: 37 1/2" (95.25 cm), and she is 5'9" (175.3 cm) tall.
Morgan is wearing the Vallie jeans in a size 20. Her measurements are waist: 41" (104.1 cm), hip: 52" (132.1 cm), and she is 5'9" (175.3 cm) tall.
Fabric and Fit
Fabric Recommendations
Vallie is drafted specifically for non-stretch woven fabrics, so choosing a fabric with the right weight and structure is key to achieving the intended fit and silhouette. Medium to heavy bottom-weight fabrics such as denim, twill, and corduroy are ideal for creating the structured shape of the jeans while allowing the generously proportioned leg to hold its form.
Denim is an especially fun place to experiment with Vallie. Try different washes and colors to create everything from a classic pair of blue jeans to something more distinctive. Twill offers a clean, polished interpretation, while corduroy brings texture and a distinctly vintage feel.
For the pocket bags, choose lightweight to medium-weight woven fabrics such as chambray, poplin, quilting cotton, or shirting. A fun print or contrasting fabric can add a small, unexpected detail inside the garment.
Fitting Tips
Because Vallie is designed for non-stretch denim and is fitted through the waist, hip, and upper thigh, it's especially important to choose your size based on your body measurements and compare them with the pattern's size chart before cutting. If you fall between sizes, you may need to grade between sizes particularly through the waist and hip.
For more guidance, check out our tutorials on fitting pants, grading between sizes, adjusting rise depth, and lengthening or shortening the inseam.
- Understanding ease will help you pick the right size or sizes. This tutorial will teach you all about design and wearing ease.
- Follow this tutorial to lengthen and shorten a sewing pattern.
- If you want to blend between sizes, use this video tutorial.
- Check out this article on pants fitting basics or do a pant fitting deep dive in this video sewalong.
