Block Paper Scissors is a monthly column that teaches three pattern hacks. These hacks help you give your Seamwork patterns a custom spin—all you need is paper, a ruler, and a pencil!
This month we walk you through three different pattern hacks for the Dana panties. Learn how to create front contrast panels, a center back lace-up panel, and retro high-waisted bikini-style briefs with a waistband.
Note: For best results, be sure to make any necessary fit adjustments before hacking your pattern.
You'll Need:
- Dana
- Paper
- Pencil
- Scissors
- Clear ruler
- French curve
Front Contrast Panels
Step | 01
On panty front (C), measure 2 1/2”- 3” out from the center front, along the waistband. Mark.
Step | 02
Using a ruler, draw an angled line from the mark to the leg opening.
Step | 03
Draw a second line parallel to and 1 1/2”-2” away from the first line.
Step | 04
Cut along both lines.
Step | 05
Add 3/8” seam allowance to the cut lines and label the pattern pieces as in the diagram.
Step | 06
To sew, assemble the panty front then sew according to the pattern instructions.
Back Lace-up Panel
Step | 01
On the back panty (D), measure out from the center back, along the waistband, approximately 3-4”. Mark.
Step | 02
Draw a line parallel to the center back, connecting the waistband mark with the leg opening.
Step | 03
Cut along this line.
Step | 04
On the center back panel, measure down from the waistband 4-5”. Draw a line parallel from the waistband at this marking. Cut along the marked line and eliminate the top piece.
Step | 05
Add 3/8” seam allowances to all the cut lines and label the pattern pieces as pictured in the diagram.
Step | 06
Cut the pattern pieces out of fabric.
Step | 07
Fold the top edge of the back middle panel to the wrong side at 3/8”. Press. Hem using a coverstitch machine, a zigzag stitch, or a twin needle.
Step | 08
With right sides together, match the back middle panel to one back side panel. Pin. Stitch.
Step | 09
Finish the seam allowances together and press the entire back side panel and seam allowances toward the back side panel.
Step | 10
Repeat steps 8-9 for the other back side panel.
Step | 11
Using a coverstitch machine, a zigzag stitch, or a twin needle, topstitch the back side panel seam allowances in place. Press.
Step | 12
Add six small eyelets to the back side panel seam allowances according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Step | 13
Finish sewing according to the pattern instructions. Use a piece of 1/4” ribbon to lace up the back of the completed panties.
Retro High-leg Briefs
Step | 01
Measure about 2 1/2”-3” down from the waistband along the side seams of the front panty (C) and back panty (D) pieces. Mark.
Step | 02
Redraw the leg openings on the front panty (C) and back panty (D) pieces by blending a curved line from the side seam toward the crotch along the leg opening.
Step | 03
Cut along the lines.
Step | 04
Draw a parallel line 1 1/4 - 1 1/2” down from the front and back panty waistband edges.
Step | 05
Cut along the lines.
Step | 06
Add 3/8” seam allowance to the cut lines and label as in the diagram.
Step | 07
To sew, assemble the front panty (C) and back panty (D) pieces and finish the leg openings according to the pattern instructions.
Step | 08
With right sides together, sew the short ends of the waistband together, repeat for the second set of waistband pieces. With right sides together, align the top edge of the waistband units. Pin. Stitch.
Step | 09
Turn the waistband right side out and press. With right sides together and side seams aligned sew the waistband unit to the panties.
About the Author
As pattern designer, Anna works hard to make sure our sewing patterns boast both great style and instructions. She believes in the power of chocolate and coffee to cure just about anything.
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