Introducing the Sable Cardigan and Lou Jacket

It’s our 200th Seamwork pattern! Thank you for all of your downloads, tagged projects, and notes over the years. It’s a joy to bring you new designs each month, and seeing what you make with Seamwork patterns brightens the team’s days.

This month, sew up the Sable cardigan and the Lou jacket—our 200th Seamwork pattern!

Meet the Sable Cardigan

Meet Sable! Sable is a fitted cardigan with three tie closures along the center front. Sew this cardigan in your favorite knits, like ponte, merino jersey, French terry, rib knits, and sweater knits. You can use your fabric to create ties or use ribbon for a contrasting texture.

Amarachi is wearing a size 2 Sable cardigan graded to an 8 at the hip. We did a full bicep adjustment and added 1 1/2" (3.8 cm) to the sleeve length. Her measurements are 33 1/2" (85.09 cm), 26" (66.04 cm), 38 3/4" (98.43 cm), and she is 5'8" (1.72 m) tall.

This fabric is Organic 2X1 Rib Knit in Toast from I See Fabric.

Crosby is wearing a size 18 Sable cardigan graded to a 16 at the waist. We did a broad shoulder adjustment and shortened the armhole depth. Her measurements are 46” (116.8 cm), 36 1/2” (92.7 cm), 48” (121.9), and she is 5’10” (1.78 m) tall.

The fabric is Knit Gauze in Gray, from I See Fabric

The member bonus variation for the Sable cardigan swaps the ties for hook and eye closures. The bonus is Designer Deadstock Cotton and Spandex Thermal Knit, from Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics.

Get the Sable cardigan

Fabric & Fit

Fabrics to shop: Look for medium-weight knits with at least 30% stretch, such as ponte, double knit, merino jersey, French terry, rib knits, and sweater knits.

Notions: You can make ties from your main fabric or use twill tape or ribbon. If you use ribbon, pick something strong that won’t fray when sewn into the seam.

Fabrics to avoid: Avoid knits that have less than 30% stretch.

Fit: Pay the most attention to your bust and bicep measurements. This cardigan has negative ease, so check the finished garment measurements chart. Here are some fitting tutorials that will help you:

Armhole depth adjustment: Sometimes a pattern might have a longer or shorter armhole depth than you need. A long armhole can impact your mobility and lift. A short armhole will be tight and uncomfortable.

Shoulder slope adjustment: Sometimes your shoulders might be at a slightly different angle than the pattern was drafted for. Your shoulders are anchor points for any top or dress, so if the shoulders don’t fit, the whole garment won’t fit!

Bicep width adjustment: If your sleeve is too tight and uncomfortable or the fabric is straining across the sleeve, you will want to increase the bicep width. Conversely, if your sleeve is too loose and sits too far away from your arm, you will want to decrease the bicep width.

Full bust adjustments

Small bust adjustments

Meet the Lou Hooded Jacket

You'll wear the Lou jacket for years to come. Lou is a fully lined, hooded jacket with a stylish A-line fit. The hem hits a few inches above the knee, and there are a few details that make this jacket so classic. It features a three-piece hood, shoulder yoke, and patch pockets with an angled flap. The sleeves have adjustable tabs you can cinch and snaps along the center front.

Sew this jacket in medium-weight or heavyweight fabrics, like jacketings, canvas, denim, and twill. Since the design doesn't have a bunch of extra seams, this is a great project to sew in a water-resistant fabric for a fun raincoat!

Our 200th pattern is named after our talented ambassador Lou! Follow her blog Sew Much to Design to see what she sews.

Amarachi is wearing a size 4 Lou jacket with a broad shoulder adjustment. We added 1 3/8" (2.86 cm) to the sleeve length. Her measurements are 33 1/2" (85.09 cm), 26" (66.04 cm), 38 3/4" (98.43 cm), and she is 5'8" (1.72 m) tall.

This fabric is Waxed Canvas in Nautical Red from Ewe Fibers. The lining is Rayon Bemberg in Orchid Rose from Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics.

Crosby is wearing a size 18 Lou jacket with a broad shoulder adjustment. Her measurements are 46” (116.8 cm), 36 1/2” (92.7 cm), 48” (121.9), and she is 5’10” (1.78 m) tall.

This fabric is Westminster 8oz Cotton Twill in Navy with Rayon Bemberg Lining in Baby Blue, both from Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics.

Get the Lou jacket

Fabric & Fit

Fabrics to shop: Look for heavyweight woven fabrics such as canvas, denim, twill, and coatings. To make a rain jacket, look for waterproof or water-resistant fabrics, such as waxed canvas, cordura, vinyl, Gore-tex, and other technical fabrics. If you need help picking out fabric and sealing your seams, read this article: How to Sew a Rain Jacket.

For the lining, look for light- to medium-weight woven lining fabric, such as cotton sateen, silk habotai, flannel, acetate, nylon, rayon bemberg, or voile.

Notions: This jacket closes with snaps. If you’ve never set snaps before, don’t fret! Here is an article that will walk you through each step: A Comprehensive Guide to Set-in Snaps.

Fabrics to avoid: Avoid lightweight fabrics as they will not have enough body to support the A-line silhouette. If you are sewing with waterproof or water-resistant fabrics, avoid stiff fabrics with no drape or breathability, such as vinyl and neoprene. Read How to Sew a Rain Jacket for more details.

Tips for sewing:

If this is your first time sewing a lining, it’s easy for things to get twisted. Use basting stitches for one of the sleeves, then test to make sure it works. The basting stitches will be easier to unpick if you need to.

Here is an article about sewing with denim.

You’ll be sewing some corners with this project, so here is an article about how to get the perfect point.

Read this article to borrow more fabric ideas from the Francis coat.

Here are a few ideas for cotton and rayon linings if you don’t want to use polyester.

Fit: This jacket is more fitted at the top, with an A-line silhouette. You’ll still be able to wear your favorite sweater underneath as long as you pay attention to the bicep and shoulder measurements. Here are some fitting tutorials that might help you:

How to lengthen and shorten a pattern

Armhole depth adjustment: Sometimes a pattern might have a longer or shorter armhole depth than you need. A long armhole can impact your mobility and lift. A short armhole will be tight and uncomfortable.

Shoulder slope adjustment: Sometimes your shoulders might be at a slightly different angle than the pattern was drafted for. Your shoulders are anchor points for any top or dress, so if the shoulders don’t fit, the whole garment won’t fit!

Bicep width adjustment: If your sleeve is too tight and uncomfortable or the fabric is straining across the sleeve, you will want to increase the bicep width. Conversely, if your sleeve is too loose and sits too far away from your arm, you will want to decrease the bicep width.

Full bust adjustments

Small bust adjustments